- Morocco -

 

From the very first mint teas we were offered, ceremoniously poured from silver tea pots, to busting out Berber dance moves in a Kasbah and shedding skin in a luxury Hamam (steam room), I don't know where to begin describing my trip. However, I do know I have returned with beautiful Berber rugs that now adorn my hallway and a tagine collection that would rival that of a museum, a newfound capacity to shimmy and bang out a nomadic drum beat, an obsession for spices and plans for a riad-style home!

Story Nicole Snow

 
big-et11-marrakesh-royal-mansour-marrakech-384947_1000_560.jpg

GEOGRAPHY LESSON 

The first stop was Marrakesh, the fourth largest city in the country, located north of the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, which the days ahead would see us drive through on our journey to the Sahara. Marrakesh is home to mosques, breathtaking palaces and gardens. A symbol of the city, and visible for miles, is the Moorish minaret of the 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque. 

Marrakesh has the largest traditional Berber market in Morocco and the city is forever associated with its souks (marketplaces). Within the city lies the Medina which is a densely packed, walled, medieval city dating to the Berber Empire. Its maze-like alleys are where thriving souks sell traditional textiles, pottery and jewellery. Within these walls you will find yourself saying, "I am lost" a lot, but eventually (and luckily) all roads lead back to the bustling square Djemaa el-Fna. From the rooftop of a surrounding restaurant in the square you can watch the area come alive at night with food stalls, snake charmers, and music makers. 

 

Rooftop dining at Cafe Nomad

Rooftop dining at Cafe Nomad

Ali ben Youssef Medersa

Ali ben Youssef Medersa

WELCOME TO THE MEDINA

This city is notoriously known as a place where it is easy to get lost and I so quickly was lost. I had spent the day exploring the city, dodging donkey carts, mopeds and local vendor's stalls. I had carefully wound my way through the labyrinth of alleyways but when I attempted to retrace my steps, I was completely and utterly lost. In hindsight, I should've started the trip how I ended it, sitting in a café, 'people watching', sipping tea and planning my days ahead, but that wasn't the case and in my usual style I jumped right in! 

Visiting the Medina was also an overwhelming sensory experience. Scents of spices will awaken your taste buds (and you won’t find more delicious couscous) there are endless sounds of traffic, echoes of prayer and the shouting voices of stall owners. It is also a feast of bright and vibrant colour.

Morocco is a place I have had on my wanderlust list for years. I was keen to explore a place so rich and inspirational in culture, custom, architecture and history. For Europeans, Morocco is a short and direct flight away, but for Australians the journey is long. It was absolutely worth it however despite the lost luggage, but that's a whole other story!

 

Spice Market

Spice Market

Medina 

Medina 

Villas des Orangers

Villas des Orangers

STAY AWHILE

Staying in a riad, a traditional Moroccan house with an interior garden or courtyard is a must and certainly gives meaning to 'don't judge a book by its cover'. Every riad is unique and often exists behind an unassuming door situated in a quiet alleyway. It’s like entering another world as you leave the bustling Medina behind you. 

You are welcome at most riads to come in for a mint tea and spend time admiring the interiors and the design. 

I left Morocco newly inspired but also feeling like there was so much more to experience. I believe getting lost is when you discover the most and returning home with the few, special Moroccan momentos I have are the reminders for me to get lost more often.

Riad ZamZam

Riad ZamZam

Riad Adore

Riad Adore

A little more.... 


 
Cafe Nomad

Cafe Nomad

TRAVEL TIPS

Language
A number of Arabic dialects are spoken but French is the common language so it helps if you know a little. In the cities most could speak English. 

Getting there
Most major airlines do not fly direct to Marrakesh from Australia, although this is to change. Qantas/Emirates offer flights via Dubai arriving in Casablanca. There is a train service from Casablanca to Marrakesh that takes 2 hours. A first class ticket is approximately $20. Allow an hour for a taxi ride from the airport to the station. Alternatively you can hire a driver for approximately $150 to take you directly to Marrakesh (1.5 hours).

Helpful tips!
Hip Marrakesh is a great App you can download on your phone that has a map of the medina and tracks you so if you do find yourself completely lost then this will get you out without asking for direction which can be costly.

Little warnings..

There aren’t any fare meters in the taxis so be sure to confirm your price before hopping inside. Your hotel concierge can help with this too.

As Morocco is predominately Islamic, alcohol is not found everywhere. It is only served in some restaurants and hotels. 

Tourists can be targets for locals vying for a dollar. Be mindful when accepting help as it may lead you elsewhere.

MUST SEE

Ali ben Youssef Medersa
medersa-ben-youssef.com
 

"You who enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded' reads the text over the entryway of Ali ben Youssef Medersa an Islamic school attached to the Ben Youssef Mosque. It is home to some of the most beautiful art and architecture in Marrakesh. 

Maison de la Photographie de Marrakech
maisondelaphotographie.ma 

The Photography Museum of Marrakesh houses a permanent collection as well as special exhibitions. There is also a sweet café on the roof terrace where you can enjoy a great view of the Medina.

Majorelle Garden
jardinmajorelle.com/ang

Majorelle Garden is a 12-acre botanical garden and artist's landscape garden. It also has an archaeological museum that is open to the public. Majorelle Garden was owned by Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Bergé. After Yves Saint Laurent’s death in 2008, his ashes were scattered there. This little area of Marrakesh is also home to local designers and art stores.

Koutoubia Mosque
mosquee-koutoubia.com

Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakesh and the centre of the city. Five times a day, a voice rises above the Djemaa din as the muezzin calls the faithful to prayer from the Koutoubia Mosque minaret.

Nomad

Nomad

DINING

So which places stand out? Here’s a short, tried and tested list of our favourite eats across Morocco. 

Cafe Arabe
cafearabe.com/en
 
If you are over the spices which will happen Cafe Arabe serves Moroccan italian in a Riad courtyard to a hip crowd with great cocktails!

I limoni
facebook/I-Limoni/
 
Ina courtyard of lemons trees dine on Moroccan and Italian - its popular and the service incredible.

Gastro MK
maisonmk.com 
For a special night out - this award winning restuarant lies within and is a set degustation menu.

Cafe Nomad
nomadmarrkesh.com

Located on the edge of spice square (places des épices in the heart of the Marrakech Medina (a little hard to find). With its elegant rooftop terrace and contemporary take on Moroccan cuisine, Nomad offers a really classy dining experience. 

Le Jardin
lejardinmarrakech.com
Situated in the courtyard of a recently restored riad, Le Jardin lives up to its name. Not only is it peaceful and full of trees and plants, it also has an abundance of fresh produce to offer. In the corner of the courtyard, fruits and vegetables are piled up in baskets like at
a greengrocer’s.